Pilgrims kneeling and praying at the holy site.

Lhasa's cardinal landmark - Potala Palace, one of the wonders of Eastern architecture


Our tour-guide>>>




A symbolic structure to state that it is a protected structure and a UNESCO Protected Heritage Site


The Potala is a sructure of massive proportions, an awe-inspiring place, sitting on Marpo-Ri, a 130m high hill. Pilgrims get free access ton Mon, Wed, Fri, otherwise tourists have to reserve the admission tickets one day in advance due to popularity. There is a strict rule that it can only admit about 500+ people per day and there is a time limit to enter and exit.
Security is very strict, the admission price is also costly. Modern X-ray machines are found at the entrance to ensure no prohibited items are brought in. Photography of the interior is strictly prohibited and forbidden and all rooms are wired with motion sensors and video cameras.

There are steep steps almost every corners and almost everyone there is feeling breathless walking up...
The ground floor of the red palace is the Chapel of the Holy Born and statues of the Dalai Lamas. The assembly hall is dominated by a huge 12.6m high chorten of the fifth Dalai Lama, gilded with some 3700kg of gold. Basically, this whole palace is huge and the pillars are built in solid wood with grand architecture and wonderful paintings from the wall to ceiling. There are several sacred chapels and tombs decorated with jewels and gold and not to worry, the cold temperature has enabled alot of preservation of ancient paintings and sculptures. Different rooms belong to different Dalai Lamas...and its a historical eye-opener...its a never-ending walk for a historian geek. The history and the story spans a few hundred years which I shall not state here.
Lastly, the roof of the white palace as spectacular views of Lhasa and the murals are plentiful of a description of Bodhgaya, where Buddha achieved enlightenment.


The rear view of Lhasa city from Potala Palace

The Lhasa railway station (highest railroad in the world)is the white arc situated at the foot of the mountain.
Lunch was unfortunately, or should i say fortunately (since the food taste not bad) at the same place as yesterday. However, the feeling of looking at the same dishes isnt pleasing..ok...its slightly different only.
We made our way to Barkhor Square through many shopping districts with branded-name stores like Adidas, Baleno, foreign banks, etc. Barkhor Square was a large plaza that was cleared in 1985 and renovated in 2000. By clearing the plaza, the Chinese govt can keep an eye on the activities of the locals through video cameras, but the square has still become a focus for protest several years ago.
Close to the entrance to the Jokhang is a constant stream of Tibetans following the Barkhor circumambulation route in a clock-wise direction. Nobody walks anticlockwise otherwise the Tibetans will tell you to turn around. The Barkhor circuit is more like a flea market on both sides with all the fake antiques, Tibetan prayer beads, prayer wheels, religious photos, religious flags, carvings, etc...as long as things that are mainly religious and is Tibetan. The stores seems to be countless and they are known to sell at an exhorbitant price...so beware. In fact, hardly any tourist seem to buy any of those wares and I must comment that tourists seems to be a minority there...haha

Water vat to store rainwater in the event of fire (during ancient times)...

Praying towards the Jokhang Temple

Prayer wheels....

Spinning prayer wheel...

Giving offerings by lighting yak-butter candle

Barkhor Circuit Market in the evening

We went to the Jokhang Monastery first..Known as the Tsuglhakhang in Tibetan, it is the most revered religious structure in Tibet. It was built to face Nepal to honour Princess Bhrikuti, hence its very common to see people prostrating infront of the monastery regardless of whether the elderly have arthritis or watsoever...they prostrate like a thousand times faithfully.
Interestingly, at such a touristy place, beggars are rare to be found but you'll see many locals wearing very simple, tattered, wooly clothes. The Jokhang is thick with the smell of putrid yak butter, and there is a murmur of mantras in the background. Like all monastery, it has a long history behind it. In the early Cultural Revolution, it was desecrated by the Red Guards, and part of it was unfortunately turned to a pigsty, thats why many things is no longer that ancient after restoration and refurbishment, though the basic layout and some structure remains. Admission fee is rmb 70 (S$14)
In the front of the entrance to the Jokhang is a forecourt that is perpetually crowded and pilgrims polishing their flagstones by their prostrations. Just inside the entrance are the Four Guardian Kings, rows of flickering buttre lamps. Entry to the Jokhang is a short dark corridor punctuated midway by a chapel on either side. The chapel to the right houses several naga goddess (naga=water spirits). The inner sanctum houses more important images of Buddhism and Dalai Lamas and chapels of different religious stuff. It is restored in the way that will stun you...theres too many stories and things to marvel in every single chapel...

Top of Jokhang Monastery


View of Barkhor Square from Jokhang Monastry

Pot bellied stone incense burners (sangkang) in front of Jokhang - 4 in total, marking the extremities of the Barkhor circuit.

Roof of Jokhang Monastery



In fact, the security to enter Jokhang Monastry is rather lax and for the 1st time, I saw a cat in Tibet...a really thick fur cat scratching a wooden pole...lol.
Now, we head on to Sera Monastery (admission RMB 55; S$11) through a rocky road at the foot of another mountain. Its approx 5km north of central Lhasa, considered one of Lhasa's Gelugpa monasteries with a huge monastic population of around 5000 monks last time. There is a debating courtyard where you see monks debating and questioning each other about religious stuff.

After the brief visit, we travelled back to Lhasa city via interesting sights like Tibet Army Hospital (army camps are common in Tibet to control the place), market with raw meat hanging around. Dinner is at the same old place..same dishes with unknown bones & shredded meat. The only thing i dared to eat was the wintermelon soup which was erm..oily too.

Historical warplane in Tibetan Museum

Entrance to Tibetan Museum
Before that, we were brought to Tibetan Medicine College, another comission-making stop for the guides. It was another introduction of how effective highland Tibetan herbs & roots are good to cure all kinds of aliments. I think the only fascinating fact i learnt is that only 30 types of ants are edible in the 300 that is found on Earth...and boy...they do sell mountains of fried ants. The Tibetan Dzi Museum was the next tourist shop where we were told more about the skybeads..and how to tell the real from the fake. I guess you wont need to tell the geniuine as it is easily and cheaply available in Chinatown Sg.

The evening was basically shopping around Lhasa Central...the shopping districts (Ahh...the shopping centre is big!). Generally the prices are slightly higher or almost the same standards of our homeland. The fruits are not fresh, and are charged at a premium price. Seafoods are defintely rare in highland areas, if there are, it is rock hard frozen fish. Best of all, Lhasa is the 1st environmentally friendly city in China. Plastic bags are banned here. All your purchases will be given in a biodegradable fabric bag =)
It was an unpleasant night...The power generator was down. Apparently, electrictity is obtained from solar power and there is no power in the daytime to conserve it for the night. As it was generally cloudy for today, I believe there was insufficient energy to go around. The warm air generator wasnt faulty, the telephone cables were down, the toilet bowls can't flush...so bad that most guests just left their door ajar with staffs rushing around to appease everybody's unsatisfaction. The night continued with sudden breakdowns & restoration...it seems so torturing to sleep in freezing weather too...